Saturday, February 6, 2016

Jordan Spreader Kitbash, + 3 Tank cars, Blue Boxes, etc.

I did not take virtually any in progress pictures of this project.  Just guessing, but I probably started this five years ago.   I believe I have all of  the Roundhouse 3-in-1 kitbash kits.  The other two  
I built the handrails with styrene, and the generator using the hood from an N scale locomotive. 

 I weathered the model with craft acrylics, then used weathering powders to blend it all together.

 A little goes a long way, and I always put down a paper towel to keep it from getting everywhere.

Link to the directions on one of the designers pages, http://kitbash.ourpage.com/3in1/1516a.pdf

 Ready for window glass.  

 A rear view, showing the brake detail.
 The frame is the same frame as the Roundhouse Old Time Tank Car.

 Lots of sheet and strip styrene in this kitbash.

Other 3-in-1 kits can be seen at these links.

I was going through my collection of tank car kits, and came across these three Athearn blue box kits, and figured they would be quick builds.  



Friday, January 1, 2016

Gas Station Details, 3d printed, Shapeways

Details are what make a great scene. That said, I hate painting details.  Too much time for too little progress.  I think that is why I have so many projects started, and have trouble finishing them.  I am writing this while taking a brake from painting details on a gas station I 3D printed.  Kind of the perfect segway to the details below.

One can never have too many details, and I love gas stations.  This assortment is meant to detail multiple stations.  The assortment includes some items I had previously used in my vintage tire shop diorama.  

Many of the items, however are new, and were the first time I had printed them.  The bulk oil container, all the oil can displays, the scissor jacks, and the gas cans (1, 2-1/2, and 5 gallon), and the Jerry cans are new.

The picture above is of the items as it is shown on the Shapeways web site.  Direct link to the item: shapeways.com/product/gas-station-details-ho-scale

Here is a close up of a few of the items.  The floor jacks, and jack stands are my favorites.  These item would also be nice details in the back of a wrecker or pickup.  

You should be able to click on the pictures to get an even bigger view.  If anyone needs a special assortment, I can adjust what is included in any assortments and make a custom one to fit specific needs.  I do it all the time.

All items were printed in FUD, Frosted Ultra Detail.  I believe they would be better in FXD, Frosted Extreme Detail, but for the money, I can't see paying the difference on these items.

I included a few concrete blocks, as I have seen way to many used as axle stands.  As a youngster, we
had a neighbor get trapped under his car, when it fell on him because the blocks failed.  Duh, that is why they make good jack/axle stands.  Luckily, the guy was fine, just wedged where he could not move, and had to wait on his wife to get home, and she called the fire department.

This is all the stuff still in the box, that I did not stage for picture taking.  So you can see I have parts to detail many gas stations!

Other 3D printed details done at Shapeways,

Friday, December 25, 2015

Travel trailers, HO scale, 3d printed

Since I mostly model 1949, travel trailers appropriate to the era are pretty much non-existent in HO scale.  With that in mind, I searched the internet for examples of vintage trailers.  I came up with several, and I have modeled two so far.  



1949 Boles Travel Trailer

 Prototype picture

Exploded drawing, as uploaded to Shapeways.
1949 Boles Aero Travel Trailer Ready For Shapeways 3d printed
As pictured on the Shapeways web site.
Link to the 1949 boles aero travel trailer for sale on the Shapeways site.

I have them printed in FUD (Frosted Ultra Detail), which is an Acrylic product.  As in most types of 3D printing, whenever there is an overhang of material, support material is generated to support the overhang.  With Shapeways, they decide how to orient the item to be printed, not that it makes a lot of difference in this case.

In this particular case, the printed the item on end.  I have primed the trailer so that the flaws are easier to see, and, therefore, fix,  You can clearly see the trails left by the support material under the window and the door in the upper left of this view.  I used some 400 grit sand paper to remove the roughness.

In most drawing programs the curved surfaces are actually a series of short straight lines, and this can be seen in this view of the back of the primed trailer.  Again, a touch of very fine sand paper, and this will not be seen,

Here is what all the parts looked like after painting, with a few extra wheels and tires thrown in.  I prefer the wheels and tires as separate pieces, as they are easier to paint when not one piece.  They take a little filing to remove paint from the mating surfaces, but that is simple.

A completed shot of the trailer with a CMW 1936 Ford in the picture for size comparison.  A relatively tall trailer.

Teardrop Trailer

This trailer is not based on any specific prototype, but is a composite of several different teardrop style campers from the era.

The drawing of the complete unit in SketchUp.

The exploded drawing, 

1935 Tear Drop Camper Ready For Shapeways 3d printed
The pictures of the model on the Shapeway site has the wheels and tires hidden on the other side of the trailer.

Here is what the FUD material looks like when it arrives from Shapeways.

I painted both models silver, to denote an aluminum skin, but in this case I added a wood trim.  I painted the wood trim with a paint pen,  I was going to use a Sharpie, but when I was at the art supply store, I ask for suggestions, and they thought the paint pen would be better..., and it was.

The opposite side.

A view showing the top detail.





Other examples of items I have designed and had printed at Shapeways.

I have lots of Shapeways items I am working on, including a refuse truck, Studebaker US6, a 7-Up truck, structure wall details, roof detail, and gas station details.

I also have several items I printed on my home Afinia printer that I am working on.  I also have to prepare four or five classes for the Amherst show the end of next month; I think that is Sundays project.

Saturday, November 21, 2015

Vintage Kits, Metal Tender, Water car, with 3d printed details

I picked this up a few years ago at a train show in Wichita.  According to the experts in the Vintage HO Yahoo group, this is a Penn Line tender, and not a rare item.  Now many are saying it is a Bowser tender.  Either way, a heavy cast metal piece.

 I have been looking for a tender to use as a water car in maintenance of way service, and this fit the bill.  It weighs ton, FWIW.

 I disassembled it for painting, so not a lot to it.  The most work was going to be fabricating ladders and railings.  As you can guess, I decided to design and 3d print what I could.

 I used various pictures for reference to get an idea of what tender steps and ladders might look like.  I printed them on one of my home printers in ABS.  

All of the ladders took several attempts to get them to fit the curves of the tender.

 I don't think a single ladder fit on the first attempt.  

The most challenging ladder was the curved ladder on the back of the tender.  On top of getting the curve correct, there were holes in the casting where the ladder was to fit.  It took several attempts to get everything lined up. 

To eliminate any need for support material, I split the ladder in half for printing.  Since it was printed in ABS, it was easily solvent welded together.

Here are a few of the ladders I printed that did not work.

I primed all the painted parts before the finish coat. The ABS parts were glued on with 5-minute epoxy.  

The top hand rails are brass wire with some old Athearn metal stanchions.  

Past vintage builds:

Tuesday, November 17, 2015

Vintage Kits, Roundhouse Metal.

A friend picked these up for me two years ago at the Amherst show, http://www.railroadhobbyshow.com/, the largest model railroad show in the country.  They were cheap, as they were in bad shape.

This basket case was broken in several places, and although I spent a lot of time trying to piece it back together, I finally gave up.  
I used epoxied styrene to the back of the broken parts, but in the end, there were too many problems trying to fit all the parts together.  I saved the parts to use as car shop junk.

The Great Northern Ore car in the back of the unfortunately fuzzy pictures above only had a few broken parts.  
I disassembled it, primed the bare metal surfaces, and then painted the primed surfaces with Badger Modelflex.  Modelflex has three shades of Tuscan Oxide red to choose from.  

 With some rusty weathering, the color match looks fine.

I used Sophisticated Finishes Iron paint, so in essence, the rust is really rust.

I believe all these car are Roundhouse kits.  I stripped the paint off the flat car, and tried to match the paint on the gondola, since it had lettering I wanted to preserve.  

I added A-Line metal stirrups and a brake wheel from the scrap box.  I primed the metal, then painted the sides and underframe gloss black.  I painted the "wood" with a wood toned craft paint, and added some streaks to random boards.  

I primed the interior, and painted it with a mix of Modelflex paints.  I then heavily weathered it, again with Sophisticated Finishes Iron paint.

Sophisticated Finishes Iron paint is basically fine iron mixed in paint.  So I just painted it on where I wanted rust.  Once it dries, I apply the rusting solution supplied with the paint.  Wait a day, it this is what you get.  

Other vintage HO kits I have posted about: